Paris’s Contemporary Art Grand Festival “La Nuit Blanche” (2009)

Whenever the autumn weather is crisp and clear, Paris hosts its annual "La Nuit Blanche." Held on the evening of Saturday, October 3rd, this event has become an institutionalized contemporary art carnival in the city. This year marked its eighth edition. Rather than a pure dedication to contemporary art, it resembles an audiovisual feast, a grand folk festival, or a communal banquet. It grows livelier each year—though not necessarily more profound—and becomes increasingly kitschy, resembling a collective folk celebration that attracts thousands, especially teenagers and tourists. Using art as a pretext for a popular festive gathering is no small feat; successful events have become important resources for contemporary political culture. Along with the Paris beaches, music festivals, and Heritage Days, La Nuit Blanche is one of the capital's most famous mass activities. These all-ages programs clearly popularize, democratize, entertain, and dramatize the arts, bridging the gap between fine art and the public, and breaking out of elitist utopian confines.

Each year, La Nuit Blanche features different venues and routes. This year focused on northern Paris, surrounding the lush Buttes-Chaumont Park. In this diverse, multicultural area, these venue choices carried a developmental and exploratory nature, allowing ordinary people to participate in contemporary art, at least experiencing the city's craziest and most extraordinary artistic activities. During this rare warm autumn, with summer's lingering heat and pleasant evening temperatures, strolling through the flourishing park was unimaginable (it usually closes at 7 PM). One could view numerous dramatic contemporary art installations. If time permitted, one could continue enjoying the festivities until dawn. That night, the park was as lively as a fairground. Coinciding with the Mid-Autumn Festival, a bright full moon hung in the sky, seemingly invited to join us. It was rare to have the moon accompany me through this beautiful night.

This year's La Nuit Blanche was as dramatic and entertaining as ever. Curated by Alexia Fabre and Frank Lamy from MAC/VAL, the focus was on large-scale environmental installations and various video artworks. The selected venues were unique: parks, squares, activity centers, annexes, and churches, such as the magnificent Notre-Dame de Paris, the unusual Luxembourg Garden, and even the headquarters of the Paris Police Prefecture. The exhibitions were scattered, making it exhausting to visit them all (one had to choose selectively). Many exhibitions had queues lasting at least an hour, such as at Notre-Dame or Luxembourg Garden. Even more amusing, two theaters in Châtelet did not open until midnight, forcing art lovers to dance with time until dizzying—perhaps this is what truly defines La Nuit Blanche.

Buttes-Chaumont Park Area: I am always excited and curious about La Nuit Blanche. This year, I started my stroll and tour at Buttes-Chaumont Park. In this open British garden space, crowds were everywhere, walking, viewing, or joining the revelry. Lanterns decorated the slopes, featuring French young artist Vincent Olinet's fairground light installation. Scottish artist Nathan Coley displayed neon phrases like "There are no miracles" or "We must cultivate our garden." Norwegian artist Rune Guneriussen created a lamp environment installation, poetic and picturesque like the Milky Way, on the slopes and under trees. The most dramatic was French surface-support artist Noël Dolla's "1789-2009: 220 Years of Dreams." Colorful lights flickered on the lake, with floating series of origami boats. Lanterns adorned the front of a red rock cave waterfall, creating an illusory dreamlike scene. On the slope lawn near the entrance, thousands of deep-red umbrellas were arranged, forming a surreal situation full of imagination. This was the artist's historical reflection on the French social revolution, like a poetic and romantic dream.

Then came to the Jean-Jaurès indoor gymnasium, featuring French representative artist Claude Closky's digital audiovisual installation "Playing Guitar." Under passionate guitar rock melodies, images of three singers rotated with the rhythm, full of youthful atmosphere and an audiovisual feast. Walking along streets to Villette Round Square, a crowd watched a soccer match on an unusual bumpy green lawn. A real performance unfolded before eyes: South American artist Priscilla Monge's interactive installation where audiences could form teams and play soccer, forgetting they were interacting with art.

Châtelet-Marais Area: Taking the metro to downtown Châtelet-Marais, the core of La Nuit Blanche, surrounding the Paris City Hall square and the Marais gallery district. Exiting Châtelet Square, it was bustling with young people; nearby restaurants and cafes were full. Many viewers waited in line for theater performances. The program listed American video artist Doug Aitken's "Hysteria" and German video artist Melanie Manchot's "Kiss," unfortunately starting only at midnight. Continuing to Paris City Hall Square, it was packed with people watching a large screen. A long-haired woman (the artist herself) stood motionless in the center, facing away from the audience, set against the busy street. This was Korean artist Kimsooja's video work "A Man Everywhere in Paris," metaphorically exploring individual and social relationships. Next, I went to the Paris Fourth District Office. The inner courtyard was packed. I managed to squeeze in. Everyone was attracted by the simple portrait images and interviews projected on the screen: young artist JR's documentary "Anonymous Heroes." It unusually presented the lives and plain portraits of marginalized people in globalization: Brazilians, Kenyans, and Khmer people. It provided substantial existential questions and touching imagery, engraved in my heart and mind. Leaving the district office near midnight, I did not enter the Marais galleries. Instead, I walked along the bewitching Seine River towards Notre-Dame. Series of large portraits and partial images showing only bright big eyes appeared on the walls of Saint-Louis Bridge and the island shore. This was again JR's work. He said: "I went to Kenya in Africa, then after the presidential election I came to Brazil, then to Cambodia, where the government was forcibly evicting many families. In these places, we often see candid photos taken with long lenses. In my Anonymous Heroes series, conversely, they were taken under a relationship of trust." JR is currently exhibiting at the Musée de l'Orangerie.

In the warm late night under starlight and moon, the romantic Seine banks were filled with passersby. Every weekend, the Paris city center becomes a city that never sleeps. Couples intimately talk or stroll under the night sky, creating poetic and picturesque scenes. No wonder Paris is so charming. Arriving at the magnificent Notre-Dame, the square was densely packed with a long queue because visiting the solemn and sacred cathedral late at night was unusual. It required considerable patience and perseverance to enter. Half an hour later, following the crowd, I finally entered the cathedral, which was also full of visitors. Amidst the holy atmosphere, moving slowly with the crowd, I viewed Swiss artist Sylvie Fleury's brilliant crystal series installed in small prayer rooms on both sides. Bewitching crystal light reflected paths of crosses and insights into faith, resembling Gothic colorful stained glass roses. After a spiritual baptism leaving the cathedral, across at the Paris Police Prefecture, Taiwanese artist Lin Ming-Hung's traditional Taiwanese floral cloth pattern installation was exhibited. There was another long queue at the entrance, so I decided to give up.

Latin Quarter: Arriving at the Latin Quarter on the left bank of the Seine, a gathering place for Parisian youth and tourists, where bars, cafes, restaurants, cinemas, and small shops are concentrated. It was already lively, a city that never sleeps year-round, and even more crowded during La Nuit Blanche. Saint-Severin Church is here, exhibiting Canadian artist Janet Cardiff's innovative sound installation "The Forty Part Mur," interpreting Thomas Tallis's "Spem in Alium" from 1573. Inside this Gothic church, the artist placed forty speakers in a circle, each presenting a choir member's voice. The sequence lasted 14 minutes, including 11 minutes of music and 3 minutes of silence. Audiences could listen to individual beautiful melodies at each speaker. Especially in this medieval building, the space was filled with extraordinary reverberating melodies, subtly entering every audience member's heart.

Beautiful melodies continued to accompany me to the Cluny Medieval Museum. Another long queue awaited. Inside, Canadian artist Patrick Bernatchez from Montreal exhibited his video work "I Am Cold Today." Set in a future apocalyptic disaster atmosphere, it reflects current global environmental and climate issues, and human fear and anxiety regarding natural disasters. The entire Rue Saint-Michel was filled with passersby. Walking towards Luxembourg Garden, I passed a Monoprix food store. American artist Stephen Dean turned the shop window into a large screen continuously displaying colorful imagery. Under this unexpected artistic surprise, passing viewers curiously stopped to glance. At least this is the magical and wonderful part. Checking the street clock, it was nearly 2 AM. Near Luxembourg Garden, it was packed, even riot police were present for security. By the park railing, another long queue wrapped around for a long distance, noisy and boiling like a night market. I tried to get through but failed. Seeing the passion of so many young people for contemporary art made me happy, proving Parisians' curiosity for new things. No wonder the art capital is always full of youthful artistic vitality. French artist Michel de Broin turned Luxembourg Garden into a grand disco hall or La Nuit Blanche carnival. He placed a large mirror ball in the center of the park, flashing unparalleled brilliance under the lights, under a thick atmosphere of joy and celebration. With this joyful mood and infinite dreamlike imagery, and bewitching colors, I fully concluded my annual La Nuit Blanche.