French Contemporary Portraits - The Matriarch of Women's Fashion, Yves Saint Laurent

YSL’s famous “Opium” perfume ad was quite sensual and subversive. Image from www.20minutes.fr photos-credit-AFP. When one mentions French fashion for women, one immediately associates it with Yves Saint Laurent. He is the most influential figure in the fashion industry and a master of clothing design whose reputation has endured over time. Sharing names with figures like Dior and Chanel, he is regarded as a leader of 20th-century fashion; because of their creation, Paris became the world capital of trends. Known as the matriarch of women's fashion in the century, when women wear YSL-designed clothes they appear more generous, elegant, noble, and beautiful. The YSL trademark has become synonymous with modern popular apparel. He innovated women's fashion worldwide according to changing times, serving noble ladies for half a lifetime. He said: "I am not a tailor, I am an artisan, making happiness." In his farewell presentation in 2002, he stated: "I have always respected the importance of this craft. Although it is not an art, it requires true artists to exist." After dominating the fashion and apparel world for forty years, he passed away in Paris on June 1.

Yves Saint Laurent was born in 1936 in Oran, a seaside town in Algeria, then a French territory, where he spent his youth. His personality was shy and introverted, but he showed talent for clothing design at an early age. In 1954, at eighteen, he came to Paris, the capital of fashion, and studied design at a haute couture school for three months. The following year, he participated in a clothing design competition held by the International Wool Secretariat and won the grand prize. His talent was appreciated by Christian Dior, a celebrity in the fashion world at the time, and he became Dior’s design assistant. In 1957, after Christian Dior died, Yves Saint Laurent, only twenty-one years old, became the chief designer of the Dior company, beginning to showcase his talents fully. Speaking of his mentor and friend Dior, he pointed out: "Dior captivated me; I could not speak in front of him. He laid the foundation for my design. No matter what happens later, I will never forget the days by his side." The following year, he launched the creative "Trapèze" trapezoidal line fashion apparel. Starting in 1958, with the help of benefactor Pierre Bergé, he began to develop his prospects. In 1960, he was conscripted into the army and transferred to the frontline in the Algerian war. Less than twenty days later, he was discharged due to neurasthenia and sent to a psychiatric hospital for treatment. Upon returning to Paris after treatment, he found that Dior had replaced his position with designer Marc Bohan.

In 1961, supported by his close friend Pierre Bergé, he established his own company. The YSL brand thus became a symbol of fashion. At that time, the world economy was booming, and women began to have more economic autonomy. In 1965, starting with modernization, he pioneered artistic painting-inspired apparel, paying highest tribute to art masters—starting with Mondrian, followed by Picasso, Van Gogh, Andy Warhol, and others. In 1966, he created the runway show for "Smoking" women’s trousers, boldly subverting traditional female fashion aesthetics. Later that year, at the suggestion of Yvonne Nepp, he established the Left Bank Saint Laurent ready-to-wear high-end brand, designed by him and manufactured industrially, doing brisk business. In 1969, he established men’s wear, becoming a major development for YSL’s economy. His bold, avant-garde yet classical designs repeatedly rewrote the rules of popular apparel. The talented Saint Laurent was skilled at adjusting flaws in human body shapes and integrating elements such as art and culture into his designs. He was quite sensitive and rich in inspiration. His clothing designs fully reflected changes in women’s status in society. Saint Laurent’s high-waisted garments used luxurious materials, featured meticulous craftsmanship, and were expensive, winning the favor of wealthy noblewomen. In 1971, he advertised his own developed men’s perfume with a quite challenging full-nude image. Later that year, he boldly updated traditional 1940s noble lady attire, causing social controversy. Also that year, he subverted traditional runway shows, featuring the first black models Katoucha Niane and Betty Catroux, who looked like twins. Foreign actress Catherine Deneuve, a symbol of French culture, was a close fan of Saint Laurent and often participated in the grandeur of runway shows. In 1977, he created the now-famous "Opium" perfume. Finally, his name and the familiar YSL trademark became synonymous with modern popular apparel, renowned globally.

Besides Yves Saint Laurent also designed costumes for theater and film, such as Cyrano de Bergerac or The Marriage of Figaro in 1959. For films, La Panthère Rose in 1963 and Stavisky in 1974. In 1980, he and Pierre Bergé acquired the Majorelle Garden in Marrakech, Morocco, which became a place for Saint Laurent to seek tranquility during leisure vacations. In 1985, French President Mitterrand awarded the National Order of Merit to fashion master Saint Laurent, affirming his achievements. In 1990, a new initiative titled "Homage" featured top model Zizi Jeanmaire, along with the participation of fans who brought happiness, such as Catherine Deneuve. In 1998, the YSL company was acquired by French entrepreneur François Pinault, bringing new management directions and new creative styles. A new generation of fashion designers, Tom Ford, took charge of the Left Bank ready-to-wear department. In 2001, French President Chirac again awarded the National Order of Merit. In 2007, new President Nicolas Sarkozy did not forget to present the highest national honor medal to this generation’s fashion matriarch. Three presidents affirmed Yves Saint Laurent’s unique life achievements with the highest honors. On January 7, 2002, during the final farewell runway show, accompanied by many top models, confidants, and close fans, Yves Saint Laurent declared: "I choose today to say goodbye to the profession I have loved all my life." Then on January 23, a grand celebration was held for the 40th anniversary of the top-tier YSL clothing company, after which he retired to live a quiet life. However, having taken sedatives for a long time, he passed away early today morning in his Paris residence. A generation’s fashion master thus fell. The three letters YSL will henceforth become the mark of the highest fashion.